Are you scouring the internet looking for articles on 'How to repair a blacktop asphalt driveway?' If you're a DIY (Do It Yourself) kind of homeowner, you've come to the right place! To be honest, there are a lot of great articles out there on the internet that explain what you need to do to repair your asphalt driveway but we wanted to create an article that explains not only. Apply the Second Coat of Sealant. After the first coat has cured, seal the driveway again by using the squeegee to spread asphalt sealer in a series of passes perpendicular to the house. Let this second coat dry according to product instructions. Generally, you will need to wait up to 48 hours before driving a vehicle on the sealed driveway.
Use the size and position of the cracks in your driveway to diagnose its problems and figure out if you'll be able to DIY a fix.
Q: We just bought a new house and we love it, but the driveway has a few cracks and I’d really like to fix them. Is repairing a cracked driveway a do-it-yourself job, or will I need to hire a contractor?
A: While concrete is certainly one of the most durable construction materials around, over time it can develop cracks and other types of problems. For the most part, fixing driveway cracks is a relatively simple do-it-yourself project. To figure out how to proceed, first identify the type of crack you’re dealing with and determine what caused it, then move ahead with the following advice from the concrete experts at Quikrete.
If narrow cosmetic cracks are the problem, you can restore the look of your driveway with a resurfacing product. Very fine surface cracks, sometimes called “crazing,” are an indication that the surface of the concrete dried too quickly when it was poured. While unsightly, these cracks in a concrete driveway do not indicate underlying structural problems. As long as the rest of your driveway is sound (no heaving, sinking, or crumbling), you can replace those tiny cracks with a smooth concrete surface by applying a high-quality resurfacing product, such as Quikrete’s Concrete Resurfacer. This cement-based product contains polymer modifiers and additives that are designed to form a durable and permanent bond with the existing concrete.
While applying Concrete Resurfacer doesn’t require the help of a pro, it does require attention to detail. The existing concrete must first be meticulously cleaned with a high-power pressure washer. Depending on the size of the driveway, you’ll want to apply the resurfacer with a long-handled squeegee to small, workable sections, one at a time. This helps to ensure that you’ll be able to apply the product, smooth it out, and add a brushed effect to the surface before it dries. Check out this slab-resurfacing video from the Quikrete team for complete instructions.
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Cracks up to ¼ inch in width can be filled with sealant. Small cracks here and there that are narrower than ¼ inch are most likely the result of shrinkage as the driveway cured. Like spider web cracks, these small cracks do not indicate a larger problem, and they often show up soon after the concrete is poured. Cracks of this nature may never get any larger, but water can seep into them, freeze, and expand, causing the cracks to widen, so it’s a good idea to seal them with the flexible Advanced Polymer Concrete Crack Sealant from Quikrete. Sealing can prevent bigger problems down the line, and the non-sag consistency and matte gray color of Advanced Polymer Concrete Crack Sealant will even out the surface and is textured to blend into the existing driveway, disguising the fact that there ever was a crack.
Flexibility is key to a good sealant. Because concrete expands and contracts slightly with temperature changes, the sealant needs enough give to not pull away from the edges of the crack. Before you apply the sealant, you’ll need to do a little prep work, including widening the crack with a hammer and chisel in spots where it’s less than ¼ inch wide and brushing away any crumbling bits of debris. After that, filling small cracks is an easy DIY project, but for the best results, watch this concrete crack repair video before you start.
Photo: quikrete.com
Cracks along the edge of the driveway that are accompanied by crumbling can often be repaired. This type of crack is typically caused by a heavy vehicle driving along the edge of the driveway and putting pressure on the outside edge, the weakest spot. Usually limited to a small area, these cracks are good candidates for repairing with Quikrete’s Quick-Setting Cement mixed with Acrylic Fortifier. By thoroughly cleaning the cracked or crumbled edge, and then mixing and applying the two products as demonstrated in this instructional video, you can restore the edge of your driveway to its original good looks. In cases where entire corners of a concrete driveway have broken off, using a structural repair material like Quikrete Polymer Modified Structural Repair that is easily sculpted and shaped to reform the edge is great choice.
Separated control joints can be filled to give the appearance of new continuous slab. When large slabs of concrete are poured, the contractor either forms or cuts joints every eight to 10 feet, with the goal of limiting any shrinkage cracks caused during the curing process or by future slab movement. In this way, cracking is hidden deep within the joints so the smooth surface of the driveway is maintained. So, if you notice cracking along a control joint, don’t worry—that’s just the joint serving its purpose.
Unfortunately, a control joint may widen and separate over time, creating a gap that detracts from the overall look of your driveway—and it could get worse. If left alone, the crack can fill with debris, and vegetation can start to grow. You can minimize the appearance of separated control joints and keep the gunk out by filling widened joints with Quikrete’s Advanced Polymer Self-Leveling Sealant. Even after it’s filled, the joint will still serve to keep the rest of the driveway from cracking caused by ground movement. If the joint is ½ inch or wider, you’ll want to insert a foam Backer Rod into the crack first to prevent the sealant from running down and out of the crack. Be sure to clean the crack thoroughly before you apply the sealant, using a standard caulking gun. Find out how in this instructional video.
Wide, jagged cracks accompanied by heaving or settling may require full slab replacement. What you want to watch for are cracks that are wider than one inch and are uneven, meaning they’re not located in a control joint but rather in the plane of the driveway. These could indicate an underlying structural problem, especially if the surface of the driveway is higher on one side of the crack than the other. While this type of problem is more common with older driveways than with newer ones, it’s an indication that the driveway, or at at least the section with the cracks, should be replaced.
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If the damage is extensive, you’ll probably want to call in a pro to do the heavy lifting, but you might try replacing a portion of the slab yourself if the damage is limited to a small section of the driveway. Pouring a concrete slab takes a little more work: You’ll have to break out the damaged concrete, construct forms for the new slab, and add a base layer of compacted gravel before you can pour the new slab. Consider recruiting some additional workers because, once you start pouring the concrete, you’ll need to continue until the entire slab is poured. Though the project may sound intimidating, this helpful slab-pouring video from Quikrete will tell you everything you need to know. And, if you start with a good-quality concrete mix like Quikrete’s Crack Resistant Concrete Mix, you’ll ensure that your new section of driveway will be as strong as it can be and will stand the test of time.
This content has been brought to you by Quikrete. Its facts and opinions are those of BobVila.com.
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But before you apply a topcoat sealer, you must inspect the driveway and make the necessary repairs. Here's how.
Before You Seal the Driveway
1. Look for trouble spots
Carefully inspect every square foot of your driveway and make note of any cracks, oily stains, potholes, or areas that are crumbling. Pay particular attention to the very end and edges of the driveway, which are especially susceptible to damage.
2. Scrub away stains
If you find oil or grease stains, try removing them with hot, soapy water and a stiff-bristle scrub brush. If that fails, dissolve the stains with a degreaser such as Oil Eater or Krud Kutter.
3. Fill in cracks
Most driveways will have at least a few cracks, which must be repaired before you apply an asphalt sealer. It's important to repair all cracks, even the smallest ones. If you don't, they'll only grow wider and longer over time.
Best Concrete Driveway Crack Filler
There are several different products available for filling cracks in asphalt driveways, including ones that come in pourable-liquid squeeze bottles, caulking tubes, and preformed rolls. The appropriate filler to use will depend on the size of the crack.
For example, most liquid fillers will repair cracks up to about one-quarter inch wide. For cracks between one quarter inch and one-half inch, you'll need an asphalt-repair caulk or roll-type filler. In some cases, you may need to go through two applications to fill the crack so that it's flush with the surface of the driveway. For cracks wider than one-half inch, stuff foam backer rod into the crack, then apply caulk or roll-type crack filler. Be sure to read and follow the manufacturer's instructions for best results.
How To Repair Cracks In Driveway
Important: Before applying any filler, use a wet-or-dry vacuum to clean the cracks of loose dirt, grass, stones, or other matter. If necessary, use a slotted screwdriver, awl, or similar tool to pick out any trapped debris, grass, or weeds.
4. Patch potholes
If your driveway's cracks have widened into potholes, you're in for a different fix. Repair potholes, deep depressions, and crumbled areas with blacktop patch (also called cold patch). Blacktop patch is essentially ready-to-use asphalt that comes in a bag. (If your new bag of blacktop patch feels hard or frozen, drop it on the ground a few times and roll it back and forth to break up the material inside.)
Brush or vacuum the area clean, making sure to remove any pieces of loose asphalt or substrate. Cut open the bag and use a shovel to spread blacktop patch about 2 inches deep across the hole. Compact the area with a hand tamper, or a spare length of 4 x 4 or 2 x 4. Add more blacktop patch, if necessary, and compact the area again. Repeat this process until the hole is slightly overfilled. Then drive your car back and forth over the patch until it's flush with the driveway. If the patch sinks below the surrounding surface, add more blacktop patch and repeat. Allow the patch to cure at least 24 hours before sealing.
5. Prep the driveway for sealing
The last step before applying a sealer is to thoroughly clean the driveway. Start with a push broom and sweep away the heaviest debris. Then use a garden hose, or better yet, a pressure washer to rinse the surface clean of all loose dirt, sand, and grit. Start at the highest end of the driveway and work down and out toward the edges. If your driveway is very dirty and difficult to scrub clean, consider using a concentrated asphalt cleaner, such as Driveway Kleen.
Sealing the Driveway
Check the weather forecast before applying sealer. Depending on the sealer used, you may need two to three days of dry, sunny weather for the sealer to set and dry properly. Make sure the driveway's surface is completely dry before starting.
There are several different types of asphalt-driveway sealers available. The least expensive, tar-emulsion sealers, provide minimal protection but only cost about $12 per 5-gallon pail. However, they require constant stirring throughout application. Asphalt-emulsion sealers are the most popular type of driveway sealer. They cost about $20 to $25 per 5-gallon pail, typically don't require stirring, and provide excellent resistance to oil stains and water penetration.
Advanced latex-acrylic sealers last longer, fade less, and dry very quickly. In most cases, you can drive your car onto the driveway just 4 hours after sealing; for most other sealers you must wait 24 hours. These features come at a cost, though: $50 to $65 for 2 gallons of sealer. Lastly, there are industrial-duty liquid-rubber sealers that are fortified with titanium. They provide superior surface protection and wear-resistance, but they cost–I hope you're sitting down—more than $500 per 5-gallon pail.
Each type of sealer comes with specific application instructions, so it's crucial to use the exact tools and methods the manufacturer recommends. Most sealers are applied with a long-handled tool that has a flexible rubber squeegee on one edge and a short, stiff-bristle brush on the other. You use the squeegee blade to spread the sealer around and the bristle brush to even it out. Other sealers are applied with a thick-nap paint roller.
Again, it's important to follow the manufacturer's recommendations, but here's how sealers are typically applied: Pour a 12-inch-wide ribbon of sealant across the driveway, then push and pull the sealant with the squeegee to cover an area that's about 3 feet wide by the width of the driveway. Repeat this process, overlapping the previous section, until you've covered the entire driveway. Now immediately go back and use the bristle-brush edge to spread out any excess sealant that may have settled into low spots.
How To Seal Cracks In Driveway From Lowes
Allow the first coat to dry for 6 to 12 hours, then apply a second coat. (It's best to apply two thin coats rather than one thick coat.) Once you're done, use sawhorses or brightly colored ribbons to block the end of the driveway to traffic for at least 24 hours.
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